Paddling into the wave, the sun etches its relentless heat upon my back while shimmering like golden dust on the ocean top. Taken by the force of this glassy wonder of nature I ride it to the right, mist moistening my grimacing face and encircling all around me. Caught off balance, I fall into the icy water. Air squeezed from my lungs, I plummet down toward the ocean floor. Surrounded by nothing but foam and bubbles my lungs scream for oxygen while my eyes search frantically for the surface. The water plays tricks with my body, rolling it one way while bending it another. My mind begins to panic, darkness everywhere. Nothing can help me now, but me. Muscles surging with movement, I struggle insanely in hopes of reaching the surface. The foam begins to break up--I can see now. What a beautiful sight. Wavy blue sky, dancing clouds and a reflecting sun. I could get used to it down here... Adam Ball |
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